Fes is one of the largest and best preserved medieval cities anywhere in the world. It has been continuously inhabited from the 10th century onwards, and still bustles with shops, restaurants, Fes riads and hotels, mosques, medersas (religious schools) and tanneries. The city is made up of innumerable narrow labyrinthine streets; one can easily get lost without a Fes map or a guide. Meknes is an impressive city in its own right. Farming, metalwork, palm-oil refining, carpet and wool-making are some of its industries. The Sultan's palace is here, as well as good value riads and Meknes hotels. Meknes' architectural splendour has led to its being called a Moroccan Versailles.
The sights, sounds and smells of the city can often overwhelm first time visitors. It takes time to genuinely come to know this rare gem of Spanish-Arabic civilisation - don't rush it!
Fes, the oldest of Morocco's "imperial cities", is, steeped in mysticism, and noted as a great centre of Islamic culture and learning. It was founded in 789 AD by Idris I, (founder of the Idrisid dynasty), who traced the outlines of the city with a silver-gold pickaxe - "fas", in Arabic, from which Fes derives its name. Located towards the eastern end of the Saiss plain, the city is bordered by the foothills of the Atlas Mountains and the historic city of Meknes.
Fes showcase stunning architectural traditions and there is a lot to see, do and experience in Fes. Being a car-free zone (the streets are much too narrow to accommodate big vehicles, in any case) the only modes of transport inside the medina are motorcycles, donkeys and carts. A walk or Fes tour through this maze, teeming with haggling shoppers, artisans, merchants, tribesmen, deliverymen, laden donkeys and carts is the best way to soak in the vibrant ethos of the Moroccean city.
Fes has three sections - Fes el-Bali (the old city), Fes Jdid (new Fes, created in the 14th century!) and Ville Nouvelle (the most modern, French built section). Of the three it is the medina (typical Arab walled city with narrow streets) of Fes el-Bali that is the most fascinating, though Fes Jdid with its royal palace and the Mellah or old Jewish quarter come a close second.
Staying in the heart of the medina, in a Fes riad (old, renovated homes with courtyards, turned into Fes hotels) is another way to closely observe the city and its culture. Many riads in Fes offer lovely views of the medina from their rooftops, especially after dark.
Fes is home to one of the oldest operating universities in the world, the University of Al-Karaouine which was founded in 859 AD. As Morocco's spiritual capital; its mosques and medersas have for long attracted students from across the Islamic world. The Karaouine Mosque, built in the 9th century is one of Africa's oldest and largest mosques. The 9th century Andalusia mosque, embellished by successive rulers, has a huge, awe-inspiring sculpted cedar door. The imposing Rsif Mosque minaret, decorated with green faiences is a city landmark and an essential stop on a tour in Fes. Non- Muslims are not allowed inside mosques but medersas are open to all.
Leather making is an ancient craft; even today, the soft leather is in great demand. The odour emanating from the many tanneries permeates the air in several areas and is intrinsic to the character of the city, just like the shadowy alleys, the donkeys, and mint tea. Traditional guilds preserve and promote local crafts, ensuring that standards do not drop. Visit the El-Attarine souk to watch artisans at work.
Everything in Fes is not traditional; it also has a modern face in Ville Nouvelle or ‘new city'. Built in the early 20th century by the French, whose influence is quite apparent, this part of Fes is a busy commercial centre with wide streets lined with glitzy shops, Fes hotels and other establishments. If you'd rather stay in a modern hotel in Fes, this is where you'll find one.
The period between September and November or April and June is ideal for a visit to Fes and Meknes, when the weather is pleasant and tourists are fewer. If you plan a trip in June, you can catch the renowned Fes Festival of World Sacred Music.