The medina of Fes el-Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is definitely the biggest attraction in Fes. The best way to cover the main sights here without getting hopelessly lost in its labyrinthine streets is to hire a guide, through your hotel or riad. His services for a full day will be around 250 dirhams.

The pleasure of strolling through the medina is in stumbling across unexpected treasures – an intricately carved doorway, a charming tiled fountain or stopping to admire local artisans at work. The sights and sounds, mingled fragrances of spices and odours of the tanneries and workshops are overwhelming to say the least!

If time permits, duck into a hammam (public bath and steam room). Apart from enjoying a relaxing scrub, it’s a unique opportunity to meet with local women (provided of course, that you’re a woman too). Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghir are the two main alleys in the old city, both of which lead to the Bab Bou Jeloud. If you ever get lost, find your way to either of these two streets and ask for directions to the Bab Bou Jeloud.

Tanneries
Leather making is one of the city’s oldest occupations. You can shop for leather products in the leather bazaar. Visit to a tannery too, provided you can tolerate the stench! Dabbaghin souk in old Fes has a lot of tanneries and the rooftops nearby offer good views without the overpowering odour.

Kairaouine Mosque
Built in the 9th century, the Kairaouine Mosque, in the heart of the medina is one of the oldest and biggest (it can hold 20,000 people) mosques in Africa. It’s difficult to gauge its size though, since it’s jammed on all sides with houses and shops. The mosque is open only to Muslims; however, visitors can get a quick glimpse of its fabulous tile work when the doors open at prayer time. Its library is considered as an extremely important centre of Islamic thought.

Museums
Situated just outside the walls of the old city, Dar Batha Museum is housed in a former summer palace. Exhibits include 18th century musical instruments, blue coloured pottery, jewellery, embroidered clothing and Berber carpets. The Belghazi Museum is a private museum located in a beautiful riad and has displays similar to those in Dar Batha. The museum’s roof top offers excellent views of the medina. The ancient Borj Nord Museum, just outside the entrance to the old city, exhibits weapons. The Nejarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts has a little rooftop cafe where you can rest your tired feet.

Medersas
Of the many old medersas (religious schools) in Fes, some are housed in magnificent buildings and are definitely worth a visit. Non-Muslims are allowed inside. The 14th century Bou Inania medersa is a striking example of Merinid architecture. It has a beautiful minaret and exquisitely carved woodworks inside. The Medersa el-Attarine is another fine-looking structure with square pillars, zellij floored courtyard and fountain. This popular 14th century medersa is situated in Talaa Kebira. Medersa Cherratine and Medersa Seffarine are also noteworthy for their architectural beauty.

The Mellah
The Mellah in Fes Jdid is the old Jewish quarter where the city’s Jewish community was relocated in the 14th century. A once prosperous neighbourhood, many of the old multi-storeyed houses with balconies overlooking the streets, large patios and zellij designs still exist, their architectural style distinctly different from the rest of the town. South of the Mellah is the Jewish cemetery, packed with over 18,000 white tombstones, some teetering precariously over the edge of the hill. The Em Habanim Synagogue near the cemetery is now a museum of Jewish history.

The Merenid Tombs
The Merenid Tombs, on a hill outside Fes el-Bal aren’t much to write home about, but visitors usually drive up at sunset for the superb view of Fes and the nearby olive tree-lined hills. Below the tombs, are the walls of the12th century medieval city.

Bab Mansour
The Bab Mansour is a magnificent city gate in Meknes, built in the 18th century during the time of Sultan Moulay Ismail. It is believed to be the biggest city gate in Morocco. The gate has fine zellij decorations and patterns inspired from the days of the Almohad dynasty who ruled over northern Africa in the 12th century. It now functions as an arts and crafts gallery.

The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
A major tourist attraction in Meknes, this mausoleum is where Sultan Moulay Ismail and several of his family members are buried. During his rule Meknes was the magnificent capital of Morocco. . With zellij decorations, elegantly carved and painted ceilings and a twelve pillared cupola , the mausoleum is a fine example of Moroccan architectural skills. Visitors must be modestly dressed and remove their footwear before entering. Open daily from 9 am – 12 pm and 3 pm – 6 pm. Closed: Friday morning. Entrance free.

Heri es-Souani
Heri es-Souani is a huge granary with massive 4 m (13 ft) wide walls that keep the interiors cool even in peak summer. It was built by Sultan Moulay Ismail for his 12,000 horses. If the building and its tree lined surroundings evoke a sense of déjà vu, you’ve probably seen it on screen, as the location is frequently used by Hollywood film-makers. The Agdal basin was a water source for the Sultan’s horses and gardens. Open 9 am – 12 pm and 3 pm – 6 pm. Entrance fee: 20 Dhs.

The Meknes Medina
The medina in Meknes lacks the character of those in Fes and Marrakech There are shops selling jewels, rugs, clothing and the bilgha (Moroccan shoe). The Place el-Hedim is the best way to enter the medina. Visit the Dar Jamai Museum that exhibits traditional carpets, jewellery, ceramics and woodcarvings. Other places to look around are the Medersa Bou Inania with its fine architecture and the El-Manssour palace, a 19th century mansion which is now a bazaar.